We idea nosotros were headed for a placidity Holi getaway to Madhya Pradesh. Orchha-Pranpur-Chanderi. We anticipated the grandeur of the Orchha palaces too a restful Holi inward the mango orchards. But were completely unprepared for the breadth too depth of sense that Travel Another Republic of Republic of India too Gouthami curated for us.
Four days too a alluvion of stories, sights too encounters. Sample some:
- A invitee solid walled inward yesteryear mango trees, designed too managed yesteryear farmers, hamlet scientists too community-tourism entrepreneurs. The Amraee speedily made us their own. It has swept all awards possible for responsible rural tourism. The Bundeli thaali served on Holi swept us into a little culinary exploration.
- A day-long tour of Chanderi (one must pass 3 to fully immerse inward the stories of its 300+ historical monuments). My favourite was the walk through Sadar Bazaar - an ancient marketplace frequented yesteryear Khilji rulers too Mughal royals too chronicled yesteryear Ibn Batuta.
At its prime, the Bazaar was a three-tier retail hotspot - the lowest tier of shops for customers on foot, a instant grade for consumers on horseback, too the highest storey for majestic shoppers on elephant back. The same goods were sold at 3 dissimilar cost tags for the 3 client segments. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 super representative of inclusive commerce!
- A drive through sandstone quarries to the 1000-year onetime Nanoun caves. We spotted crocodiles sunbathing on the banks of the river Urvashi. And witnessed the chronicling of life through cave paintings from the chalcolithic age. Across the banks, non far away, lay burial grounds from the Mesolithic age.
 |
| Cave Paintings inward Nanoun |
 |
| River Urvashi had crocodiles on its banks! |
- A walk across Asia's largest earthen dam that submerged 85 villages (all re-settled inward Chanderi) too temples too palaces of the 14th too 15th century. When the waters of the Betwa recede inward June, the submerged monuments re-emerge, amongst paintings on their walls all the same undiminished. Massive flocks of migratory birds conference on the lakes of this dam. You request to live hither at sunset.
 |
| Sunset from the Rajghat Dam |
|
- Lunch inward the balcony of a 13th century majestic hunting lodge, ensconced inward the winding ghats too forest's of Katighati. The verandah flanks out into a massive lake amongst boatmen plying Fe boats. Here, Babur's troops had taken shelter for months too planned their strategy of laid on on Chanderi. Here, nosotros ate guava curry, too fish freshly fried on the banks of the lake.
 |
| Lake of the Royal Hunting Lodge |
 |
| 14th Century Royal Hunting Lodge |
 |
| View from the Lunch Table |
- Conversations amongst metallic workers, potters too weavers. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 identify unit of measurement of metalworkers invited us into their habitation inward Pranpur too walked us through the intricacies of their practise - a forgotten metallic fine art form, which has in all probability non been documented. Mud over wax moulds through which molten metallic is poured too baked inward earthen ovens. The 2 layered mould is thus cooled too cracked opened upwardly to arrive at intricate metallic jewellery. Do non rival the prices fixed yesteryear the hamlet tourism council for this primary craftsperson’s wares. Because you lot pay non only for the product, but for an fine art cast that may disappear inward the side yesteryear side decade of your life.
 |
| The Charkha inward Pranpur |
 |
| Weaving the Chanderi cloth inward Pranpur |
- And live on the showstopper- an impulsive plunge into the flowing, rocky pools of the river Betwa amongst Surendra bhai too his daughters, who are business office of Friends of Orchha - a network of hamlet habitation stays inward Orchha. The extended frolicking inward the mutual depression temperature waters delayed us yesteryear several hours to the side yesteryear side spot on our map. But did nosotros care?
 |
| Betwa River inward Orchha |
|
The oxygen that breathed colouring stuff too life into our trip was the indomitable Kallebhai. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 schoolhouse drop-out, self-taught, barefoot historian, who has published 4 books on the history of Chanderi, too is at the forefront of working amongst UNESCO to receive got his town declared every bit a World Heritage City. If non for anything else, watch Chanderi to only listen his story of life entrepreneurship.
Oh! And nosotros did play Holi nether the mango trees. And purchased a Chanderi stole or two. Thank you lot for this largess.
Manisha Gupta
March 2015
 |
| The Mango Orchard at Amraee Guest House |
 |
| Doorway of the Jama Masjid inward Chanderi - the designs proceed to inspire the weavers! |
 |
| My favourite- children of the 1000-year onetime village, nestled amidst stone quarries, play holi amongst adandon too chase us amongst cowdung balls inward their hands |
 |
Rajpal - the farmer-scientist- inventor amongst 3 patents to his name. He manages the Amraee invitee solid out of his passion too dear for the percentage he was born in. Not oft is he photo-bombed yesteryear guests.
|
 |
| 100-year onetime mud habitation inward Orchha |
 |
| An ancient metallic pot discovered yesteryear the Archeological Survey of India. Displayed inward an opened upwardly museum at the Raja-Rani palace inward Chanderi. |
 |
| Baodi or step-well inward Chanderi |
 |
| Frescoes inward the palace inward Orchha |
 |
| Jahangir Palace, Orchha |
 |
| Jama Masjid, Chanderi |
 |
| Mango blooms, Amraee Guest House, Pranpur |